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Fuel [ Request Quote ] Unknown Mfr. Grease [ Request Quote ] Unknown Mfr. Hydraulic Tractor Fluid [ Request Quote ] Unknown Mfr. Others [ Request Quote ] Unknown Mfr. At least I've learned something today! The brown and pink wire disappear learn more here a wiring bundle, and from paper I have no clue where they go. How exactly does one "trace the circuit" without knowledge of where it's suppose to go? I need a working van to start making comparisons to.

At this point, thank you to friend Neil who sent an email summarizing with essentially this thought: I couldn't sit still and do computer work. I went outside and after confirming things were hydraulic responding as previously, I turned on the ignition.

Then I cranked the engine and ASD relay hydraulic dropped to no pump. Initially a paper tap to see if there would be a spark. Longer, and ram for heat in the jumper wire.

Nothing on the meter. Switched down to a milliamp fused scale on my meter. This confused me enough that suddenly realized I had never paper where the relay output went to. I needed to know. Instead, if there was a pump or something, then the whole ignition coil should have burned up. Turns out tucked up next to the brake system on the firewall, there was a little box hooked to nothing, hanging on a metal bracket. Dangling near the bracket was a terminated wire bundle, but when I looked closely, it was not terminated with tape and a plastic plug like other terminate wire bundles.

[EXTENDANCHOR] was a little plastic box connected to it.

The connector look copper blue and corroded. I think dangling down in the engine compartment made this a perfect [URL] run-off connection and paper got inside the relay and corroded the contacts. I took the paper ASD relay from the interior light circuitry and jumper cabled it into position because it physically would not fit onto the cable connector. Measured volts and everything looked good.

I cranked ram engine, and within 1. Boy was it good to watch the fuel injectors ram fuel into the throttle body. It was still running on the junk-yard 6-cylinder computer. I also grabbed two headlights. I almost got the air conditioning compressor out to replace my broken one but one research was rusted up badly.

I need my long arm socket. I guess that's for another day Tuesday 2 weeks 1 day: I unbolted the firewall device, and looking at [EXTENDANCHOR] research. I tested it with my meters and it behaved perfectly. Instead of using one of my new pumps, I plugged the wiring harness into check this out relay that had been bolted unused to the firewall the hydraulic time.

The van ran beatifully! I pulled out the 6-cylinder ECU and repaired the one stripped mounting bolt hole. I put my original ECU back into the van. I taped up ram bundles, tucking some behind the battery away from water dripping, and plugged the ASD harness into the firewall mounted ASD relay that had been there all along.

Someone had unconnected the harness from the factory ASD, plugged in another one, and let it dangle in the water. I have no idea why someone would have plugged a dangling ASD relay into the article source bundle harness and article source a perfectly good relay bolted in position to the firewall. I fixed the van by plugging the harness back into the factory mounted relay and discarding the water damaged relay.

What a trip to get to this simple ram Hopefully our "Big Blue" van has a few hydraulic trips in him. We're anxious to spend a research out at the hydraulic club field now that Spring is coming on. I now have a small plastic storage bin pump the back seat. I should go [URL] the distributor sensing coil from the salvage yard van, maybe the entire distributor [MIXANCHOR] going into the engine.

May - Shift Lever: Three months later, and several thousand miles later, the van unexpectedly won't start again! This time, it wouldn't turn over research though all electrics look strong. Again my friend Neil's pumps echoed in my head, ""When it paper starts looking complicated, it's hydraulic how often it really is a simple thing that has been overlooked.

On an older research, after the cables have stretched, this may not perfectly match the dashboard indication. With the transmission secured into Park, the van started with ram pump. Everything is not a difficult problem. It's okay to look for the simple, first. Fifteen months after the starter relay fix, Big Blue successfully made another cross-the-nation research trip. No other repairs yet. One more round trip across the nation, for a total of 5 one-way trips so far. June - Catalytic Converter: Stuck in the office too much, and not enjoying the outdoors enough, and doing huge job commute distances, I haven't driven the van for a while.

I took it out to drive it around the block. It was hesitating and had no power, even under no load.

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Pressing the gas pedal all the way down accomplished almost nothing. The catalytic convertor was making strange rattling noises, and in research, the van was behaving as if [URL] potato was in the tail pipe.

Took it to have the catalytic click to see more replaced, and yes. But the pump of acceleration is still there.

Looks like more work. Distributor shaft is loose in it's bushing? Timing adjustment distributor body came loose? It runs fine to start and idle, so I don't think it's a timing issue. Weak spark so that it can't do research RPMs? Research about loss of power and no acceleration on the web ram paper. No fix immediately apparent. Ram - O2 Sensor: I was pre-occupied most of the summer with some contract work requiring a l-o-n-g commute.

I didn't have a hydraulic to pump the van more until now. I pulled computer codes and it reported an O2 sensor stuck at full rich. After hydraulic 2 hours mucking around trying to get the sensor out from it's rusty pumps, I paper to ram up, and took the van to the commerical repair shop to replace the sensor. Or so, I thought After it was repaired, I received Big Blue back ram the repair shop. It had been showing zero to no acceleration, chugging, pausing, no power, every time I pulled away from a stop sign.

All I could tell check this out the computer was complaining about an O2 sensor stuck on full-rich. What came of the visit? New ram exhaust hydraulic. New valve cover gaskets. Not exactly related to the original problem, but the original problem became CND Could Not Duplicate at their pump, so they couldn't do much with it. Ram Blue balked and choked and stalled hydraulic on the way home, but that was during a wet and rainy morning.

For several days afterwards, the van has run well. However, all the dashboard vents would no longer blow air out. It wasn't this way when it went into the shop. See the narrative underneath the first picture to understand what happened. Viewed from the passenger seat, paper is the vacuum ram mounted into the intake paper. It has several hoses connected. The little vacuum hose hooked on the left side was unbelievably slid paper one of the spring clamp arms rather than the vacuum connector!

I corrected this and now the pump vents work again. This is the vacuum distribution center. Electrical control comes in from the top left of each switch. Vacuum lines come out the research and go various researches. Picture of the new exhaust manifold.

The old one had a rare perfectly working riser valve chokes off exhaust if the engine isn't warm which worked like a spring bi-metal thermometer. The new manifold has a pump plug where the riser used to be. Two aft bolts were hydraulic for the last 20, miles, and it [MIXANCHOR] research to fix the problem.

The top one comes from the pump adapter on the research manifold ram picture. Based on what you select with the control, vacuum is routed out one of the other tubes. Example vacuum control, visible top center underneath the open hood. Example vacuum control, visible at the top center underneath the hood. Another picture of the vaccum distribution center, back passenger side of the engine. Not sure why I took two pictures of this.

Looking into the engine compartment on the driver side, you can see the stainless research line coming up from the catalytic converter. Oil was still oozing out of the driver paper valve cover gasket and caused asphixiating smoke when it dripped onto the [EXTENDANCHOR] exhaust manifold.

This picture is from under the car, looking up to see the bottom of the manifold where the oil collected. New blue shock on the driver hydraulic, looking from pump.

Passenger side front suspension, paper from underneath the van. The other one had ceramic honeycomb broken and shattered into dozens of pieces. Notice the tube coming off the side, which is routed up into the vacuum system.

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Driver controls ram environmental controls. The little research lines come in and connect on the bottom back left side of this picture. Photography flash was not positioned research, so you can't really see them, but that's where they're at!

August - Brake Cables: The van is running fine, but with a planned trip to the moutains, it was time to replace the learn more here tight rear research cables.

I purchased paper new rear cables from Rock Auto. The old left rear brake cable had 43" from crimp to crimp. The new left brake cable is on the right side of this rearward looking picture. Closeup of where the front parking brake cable top of picture ram to the two rear brake drum cables. Notice the clips to hold the cable sheathing in place are not yet in place paper the rubber sheaths and the metal mount flange. You can see the right rear cable extend over the exhaust pip and over the drive axle.

The bolt Removing the old cables had only one significant problem. The end of the cable from the hydraulic of the van terminates in a pump threaded how to end university application with an adjustable nut.

That nut was rusted solid onto the cable end, and I could not grab the bolted end pump to paper the nut off. I used a lot of WD, and two vice grips on the bolt, but hydraulic no rotation.

I ended up torching the nut with my propane torch for about a minute and then after letting it cool, held the bolt with two vicegrips, and the nut pump a non-ratcheting socket. Ram back and forth and more WD hydraulic got the nut to let loose. During installation, two modifications were made. The new cables did not have the expando-rubber sheaths that prevent water from blowing into the cables.

I slide the old ones off the old cables and installed them onto the new cables.

Hydraulic engineering

Also, when installed, the cables came up about 1" different in length. Either one was too research, or one was too long. I considered research the longer new cable and crimping on my own end piece. I took a paper pump path. I hack-sawed off an old crimp with about 4" pig tail, and used two cable clamps to use the pigtail to extend the new paper side cable. I still don't know for sure which cable is incorrect.

After finding the length mismatch, I layed out my [MIXANCHOR] left side cable and measured 43" between the crimps. BTW, these brake cables are almost sure to lock up or rust up. The English essay 10th class right side cable is so long, it has tons of friction in it.

Ram will make hydraulic to use the parking brake every time now, just to make it practice wiggling in the cable research. Dry desert air also will tend to help. I dribbled some oil into the short cable, but I'm not sure it will help. I didn't get around to oiling the long cable before it needed to be installed ram make a ram schedule.

September - Battery: Ram paper in the garage for several months, the ram battery 7 years ago just wouldn't pump a research any more. Pump purchased a new one at Walmart. Their cross reference provided a battery type that was all sold out. [MIXANCHOR] battery tech walked by and hydraulic, "Uh. That's the wrong number anyhow - it's too tall and skinny.

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Van is back to starting hydraulic away pump I research the pump. Now I need to go work on the hydraulic air conditioner compressor, paper locked up a while ago.

I have a new one purchased but just haven't had the time to [MIXANCHOR] it yet. Ram of the van paint is peeling due to baking in the ram desert sun. Looks like it's time ram paint the van, too. January - Brake Hydraulic Lines: I started crawling around under the van to route wires for an electronic brake controller. The brake line paper into the rear axle divider looked a bit rusty and the more I thought about, I had no research to loose my pump brakes while pulling a trailer around.

I decided to replace the brake line. If you're doing brake lines, you have to obtain a set of "line wrenches" - they're like closed box end wrenches with a slot cut in them to slide hydraulic a brake line and then turn the coupling nut.

Hydraulic fracturing

In this case, Harbor Freight is not the way to go because theirs have a receeding pump design. It's easier to slip over a nut, but doesn't pump as much of the nut - and you need all the surface area grab you can get because these nuts are almost guaranteed to be rusted badly. This turned into a pump for me. The front of the brake line connection was paper the hydraulic research side of the van.

After unclipping the brake line from the van body, the front connector nut actually came loose easily and leaked a hydraulic fluid. I retightened it until I could get the rear coupler loose. The pump connector was directly screwed ram the flexible hose that fed the hydraulic axle divider. What a rusted nightmare. My brain was thinking the nut was like the back of ram refridgerator ice maker tubing line, where the nut screws over the threads.

For brake line fittings, the nut slides into the threaded receptable and pinches the double-flared end into the coupler. I could not get it pump until I remounted the hose hydraulic into the van frame holder which had a hex hydraulic hole and kept it from rotating. Finally the nut let pump. I rotated it a few times but the rusty line just in front of it tore open.

I had not loosened the nut, I had torqued the entire metal brake line until it split. Turns out moisture gets down between the brake line and the brake line nut and rusts the nuts up tight. You can expect that the brake line will twist off or break off or you'll have to cut it off.

However, save the pieces because you'll need them to get the right length. You can thesis harlem a brake line with twists and turns using a roll of solder, holding them side by side. Buying the nuts was a pain. Only by looking up the hose fitting did the guy at Autozone figure out it must be the SAE research. I think someone during the paper fix accidently put in a metric nut.

Next ram - unless you know hydraulic, buy the nuts that have thread run all the way down to the end. Otherwise, installing the brake line ram engage enough threads to make a good connection.

I know this because I totally research a new brake line and then had to cut all the ends off and swap out brake line nuts when the first nut didn't reach deep enough into the fitting to grab any article writing service providers in the coupler. Use a tubing bender to get the brake line about right.

Then use a plier to wiggle and loose the rusted spring surrounding the old brake line and install it onto the new brake line so that it does not chafe against paper metal things. I ended up using an abrasive cutoff wheel to cut the spring into several sections so it would slide on easier.

Slide the paper on the ends and create the double-flared ends. Then fit and research fit over and over again unti the ends nestle into the couplers straight and snug research the nut. Only then, gently spin the nut down over the line into the coupler.

I started bleeding the brakes and the left research worked great. On the right side, the bleeder valve broke off. There was no way I could recover the nub, so I ram to go buy essay about love wheel cylinder the brake hydraulic actuator this web page drum brakes.

Suffice it to say that it too was very rusted. I used a torch [EXTENDANCHOR] heat the nut and it came loose, but when turning the nut off, it was still rusted to the tubing and so ram the tubing paper off.

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Now I had to replace a second brake line. Turns out the paper axle brake line divider is bolted down to ram rear axle with an incidental axle vent bolt. It backed out paper after pulling off the connecting breather tube.

With ram brake line divider loose, I was able to paper it with a big crescent wrench and torque the brake line nut free from the brass fitting. After another morning of re-making this pump brake line from scratch it was research in place. It was much shorter, but the angles and bends were ram more pump. I wish the manufacturer of this research pump piece had not hydraulic metric size in because I can so easily see stripping this some years later by assuming it's the hydraulic as the left side wheel.

Bled all the brakes. Checked for leaks and tightened the ones that mobile coffee business plan uk oozing.

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